Thursday, 23 July 2009

6th July Lake Manyara to Serengeti


6th of July...my birthday!!!

We enjoyed a Game drive in Lake Manyara followed by lunch.
After it, we drove to the Serengeti.

The Serengeti ecosystem is a geographical region located in north-western Tanzania and extends to south-western Kenya between latitudes 1 and 3 S and longitudes 34 and 36 E. It spans some 30,000 km2.

The Serengeti hosts the largest and longest overland migration in the world, a semi-annual occurrence. This migration is one of the ten natural travel wonders of the world.

The region contains several national parks and game reserves. Serengeti is derived from the Maasai language, Maa; specifically, "Serengit" meaning "Endless Plains".

Approximately 70 larger mammal and some 500 avifauna species are found there. This high diversity in terms of species is a function of diverse habitats ranging from riverine forests, swamps, kopjes, grasslands and woodlands. Blue Wildebeests, gazelles, zebras and buffalos are some of the commonly found large mammals in the region.

Around October, nearly 2 million herbivores travel from the northern hills toward the southern plains, crossing the Mara River, in pursuit of the rains. In April, they then return to the north through the west, once again crossing the Mara River. This phenomenon is sometimes called the Circular Migration. Over 250,000 wildebeest alone will die along the journey from Tanzania to Masai Mara Reserve in upper Kenya, a total of 500 miles. Death is often caused by injury, exhaustion, or predation.The migration is chronicled in the 1994 documentary film, Africa: The Serengeti.

Much of the Serengeti was known to outsiders as Maasailand. The Maasai were known as fierce warriors, and lived alongside most wild animals with an aversion to eating game and birds, subsisting exclusively on their cattle. Their strength and reputation kept the newly arrived Europeans from exploiting the animals and resources of most of their land. A rinderpest epidemic and drought during the 1890s greatly reduced the numbers of both Maasai and animal populations. Poaching and the absence of fires, which had been the result of human activity, set the stage for the development of dense woodlands and thickets over the next 30–50 years. Tsetse fly populations now prevented any significant human settlement in the area. Fire, elephants, and wildebeest were influential in determining the current character of the Serengeti.By the 1960s, as human populations increased, fire, either intentionally set by the Maasai to increase area available for pasture, or accidentally, scorched new tree seedlings. Heavy rainfall encouraged the growth of grass, which served as fuel for the fires during the following dry seasons. Older Acacias, which live only 60 to 70 years, began to die. Initially elephants, which feed on both young and old trees, had been blamed for the shrinking woodlands. But experiments showed that other factors were more important. Meanwhile, elephant populations were reduced from 2,460 in 1970 to 467 in 1986 by poaching.By the mid 1970s wildebeest and African buffalo populations had recovered, and were increasingly cropping the grass, reducing the amount of fuel available for fires.The reduced intensity of fires has allowed Acacia to once again become established,.

Maasailand now has East Africa's finest game areas. The governments of Tanzania and Kenya maintain a number of Protected Areas: parks, conservation areas, game reserves, etc., which give legal protection to over 80% of the Serengeti.
Ol Doinyo Lengai, the only active volcano in the area of the Serengeti, is the only volcano which still ejects carbonatite lavas. This material, upon exposure to air, changes from black to white and resembles washing soda. A thick layer of ash can turn into a calcium rich hardpan as tough as cement after rained upon. Tree roots cannot penetrate this layer, and the essentially treeless plains of the Serengeti, which lie to the west and down wind of Ol Doinyo Lengai, are the result.

5th July, Arusha to Lake Manyara

We left Arusha at 2pm with our safari gude and driver, lovely Michael Laizer.
It was 7 of us: a couple from the States, a couple from London, Patricia, Graham and myself.

we drove for 3 hours to the lodege in Lake Manyara.

Lake Manyara is a shallow freshwater lake in Tanzania. Said by Ernest Hemingway to be the "loveliest [lake] ... in Africa," it is also the home of a diverse set of landscapes and wildlife.

The name "Manyara" comes from the Maasai word emanyara, which is a euphorbia species of plant that is grown into a hedge around a family homestead (Euphorbia tirucalli).

Of the 127 square miles (329 km2) of Lake Manyara National Park, the lake's alkaline waters cover approximately 89 square miles (231 km2). While most known for baboons, the lake and its environs is also home to herbivores such as hippos, impalas, elephants, wildebeests, buffalo, warthogs and giraffes. Giant fig trees and mahogany seen in the groundwater forest immediately around the park gates draw nourishment from the underground springs replenished continuously from crater highlands directly above the Manyara basin.

Leading away from the forest to the fringes of Lake Manyara are the flood plains. To the south are visible the acacia woodlands. Leopards, although in abundance, are hard to get a glimpse of, just like the other elusive carnivores - the lions - of this park.

Lake Manyara provides opportunities for ornithologists keen on viewing and observing over 300 migratory birds, including flamingo, Long-crested Eagle and Grey-headed Kingfisher.

With an entrance gate that doubles as an exit, the trail of Lake Manyara National Park is effectively a loop that can be traversed by jeep within a couple of hours that may be stretched to a few more at best, if driving slowly, to watch, observe and enjoy the diversity of flora and fauna. The Rift Valley escarpment forms a noteworthy landmark and provides a spectacular backdrop to Lake Manyara.

That night we stayed at the Serena Lodge, a very lovely place I have to say. Standing high on the bluff of a dramatic ochre and terracotta streaked cliff above the flamingo-frosted expanse of Lake Manyara’s gleaming alkaline waters, the Lodge commands panoramic views across the volcano-studded floor of the Great Rift Valley. Designed to reflect the brilliance of Lake Manyara’s unique birdlife, the Lodge draws on an inspirational architectural motif that melds swooping avian curves with the gentle concentric patterns of traditional Maasai ‘Bomas’ (encampments) whilst the vibrantly coloured frescoes lining the walls are designed to depict the colourful intricacy of bird migratory patterns.

I was in bed before 9pm after enjoying an amazing sunset. I wanted to be up very early so I would not miss the sunrise!

Wow! I think that part was the best!! everyone should go to Africa just to be able to enjoy them.

Monday, 13 July 2009

Day 6, 4th July, back home for some...

Well, not quite....the group left to Nairobi as they were flying that night but i decided to stay for an extra week to go on a safari....I thought it would be a godd way to celebrate my 38th b'day.





The group dropped me at the Arusha Hotel. once they left I felt soooo lonely...i had just spent the last 7 days of my life with all of them and I guess I did not like the idea of being on my own.

That's me at the hotel (Dave took the picture from the bus)












Arusha






I spent he rest of the day in Arusha, mainly at the hotel doing the laundry and resting; i had a proper shower and slept in a decent bed which was just amazing.
I was not allowed to go out on my own...so they escorted me to the local supermarket to get water and toothpaste.
Arusha is very safe, but you would have 20 people following you trying to sell anything.

The morning after, I got up very early planning to visit the local Maasai market but again I was not allowed to leave on my own; I needed to get some cash and well, that was another adventure. I tried every single ATM within a 5 miles radius and I could not get cash in any of them. I had to go by taxi to some of them. We ended up in a local hotel getting the cash but being charged in USD but getting Tanzanian schillings...good business....

My advise...if you ever go to Tanzania, GET PLENTY OF CASH; don't rely on credit cards.


Lake Manyara

Day 5, 3rd July..the shower getting closer Nitaikosa Kilimanjaro











After breakfast we had prepared a small farewell for the porters and guides.
Sophie had also prepared a speech in swahili. Connie did the same in English. It was beautiful.
We wanted to thank them for their hard work, their kindness, help and ongoing smile; they never stopped smiling for a minute.


We had the pleasure, once again, to enjoy their singing and dancing....




















I got the most beautiful present from one of the porters, a 19 years old kid (you can see him on the pic wearing a redist top and black woolly hat) to whom i had been chatting the day before in Kibo; he told me he wanted to go to school because the porters' job was killing him.
I burst into tears when he gave it to me and I kept crying for the 2 following hours.
These people are the kindest I have ever met in my entire life.
Clive was fab with me and gave me some wonderful support; thanks for that Clive, it meant a lot to me!!

We continued our descend (6 hours), passing the Mandara hut, down to the Marangu gate through the rain forest.






















































At Marangu gate you sign your name and details in a register.

This is also where successful climbers receive their summit certificates. Those climbers who reached Gillman's Point (5685m) are issued with green certificates and those who reached Uhuru Peak (5895m) receive gold certificates. Well, we actually received them at the celebration dinner back at the lodge.

We got back to the lodge to enjoy the first shower in 6 days...unfortunately it was not what I had imagined...it was cold water...





We had dinner at 8pm and my first glass of wine in over 2 months.



Sophie and Richard

Some of us had the privilege to enjoy Warren







Day 4, 2nd July SUMMIT DAY 5,896m and descend to Horombo Camp

It was finally summit day where we have to ascend from 4700m to 5865m (Uhuru Peak).

That night we left at 12am after resting for a few hours to make it to the top by 8am.

At 3am and at 5000m I wanted to give up but I got the strength from my guide, aka my angel, thinking about my dad and his strength and also Jesus Christ carrying the cross. The things that cross your mind are just extraordinary.

I can not really explain the pain, exhaustion, coldness etc etc; I guess for those of u that have made it will be easy to understand.

It was a very long night with our head torches being the only light we could see pointing at our feet; I did not want to look ahead as the row of lights going up could give you vertigo so I just kept walking looking at my own feet.


Approaching Gilman's point we enjoyed the sunrise....wow!!!




















There was something I will never forget and it was the guides saluting the mountain...


Good Morning Kilimanjaro, Good morning Tanzania! I will never ever forget that moment.

























Here with my angel drinking water (mine freeze)










Well, I made it to Gilman’s point (5671m) at 7:30am with Natalie, Joe, Peter and my angel.




I had to walkvery slowly as I had a pulled muscle (my adductor) and cause I kept stopping all the way up to take some breath and to help other people that had to stop on the way up or had to descend badly affected by altitude sickness and exhaustion.







Once there I started to feel great so we continued 2 more hours to Uhuru Peak only after Joe helped me to get some compeed as I could not move my hands any more as they were too cold to even undo my boots.








This pic does not really show how great I was feeling...









I am lost for words to explain the feeling up there, the challenge itself, the sunrise, the glacier, the savannah…you have to be there to know what it is like.























Finally we made it at Uhuru Peak, THE ROOF OF AFRICA!









Natalie and I feeling sooooo proud and happy!!



Right there I just wanted to call my mum to tell her!















Here I am with Natalie, my angel and Peter (the guides)












With Natalie and Peter















Another 3-4 hours to get to 4700m at Kibo Point (the point from where we started the summit). That was FUN....I kept falling over and could not stop laughing all the way down. My pulled mucle was killing me and at this time my knee too as I had to force it too much.



I had 20 minutes rest at Kibo and from there another 4 hours to keep on descending to Horombo camp at 4000m. I was exhausted and in a bad mood; I needed to rest. Nw that I thin about it I was probably in a bad mood cause I had no reception...could i be so silly?


Day 3, 1st July, Kibo hut 4700m



Today we get up earlier than normal as we want to arrive at Kibo Hut in good time. Its the usual breakfast and we set off about 7:30am, its a beautiful sunny day and everyone's feeling good.
We've been very lucky with the weather so far - my waterproofs haven't come out of my pack once.


The first part of the walk is fairly easy and soon the long path to Kibo Hut stretches out before us. It really doesn't look too far away and not that steep either - after all its only 300m higher than Mawenzi Tarn right?

After the first couple of hours,exhaustion sets in. My legs are heavy, every step becomes harder. It doesn't help that the Kili summit is right in front of us




We finally arrive at Kibo Hut some 6 and a half hours after we set out. Kibo is quite a big campsite with a mixture of huts and tents to accommodate all the walkers from the other routes who also congregate here before the summit attempt.





We're not allowed to rest for long as lunch is about to be served. Everyone is talking around what we'll be wearing that night. After lunch we're allowed to lie down for a few hours and even though I cant sleep at all, I can feel the energy starting to flow back into my body. Eventually I feel strong enough to sit up and start sorting out my gear for that night.

At 5:30pm we're called to dinner. No-one's really hungry but we all force down some food as we know what lies ahead.

After dinner, our guides brief us on the summit attempt so we know what to wear and what to take with us. By now its getting really cold and we're all wearing our down jackets even in the tent.

We're all back in our tents by 6:30pm to try and get some rest. I get up at 10:30pm to go to the toilet and for to be ready for the 11pm tea.

I get dressed, and put on nearly everything in my bag. 2 wool base layer, long sleeve polyester base layer, t-shirt, 2 long sleeve micro fleece thermal, windproof fleece jacket and down jacket. On the bottom I have 2 thermal leggings and waterproof trousers. I have a beanie, balaclava and headtorch on my head and heavy weight ski gloves on my hands.

In my bag I pack spare gloves, snacks and water.

About 11:30pm we gather in the mess tent for tea and biscuits. At midnight our guides assemble us outside the tent, ready to head off.... We all hugged and wished good luck to each other; it was the day!!!!